Dear Stuart – Which foot to put down?

Stable at speed, its when you slow down that planning and contriving to to be in precise balance becomes more important

Hi Stuart,

I have found your website a great help. I have just purchased a GL1800 after owning a St1300 for many years. I found your article on tight turns very interesting as I am having some difficulty getting my turns tight enough. I have not been doing the weight shift on the turn. I will try this on the weekend to see if I can improve my U turns.

However, I am a little confused and would like some advice on another matter. I have always been taught to stop using the left foot down and right foot on the brake. I have managed to do this on the ST1300 for many years comfortably. However, I find my stops on the GL1800 using this method are often not stable or smooth. The Gerry Paladino DVD (2012) recommends both feet down when stopping the GoldWing and I have found this much better. The trouble is, I have to make sure the handlebars are straight, otherwise, I know I will drop it. I am concerned that one day I won’t have the handlebars straight in a quick stop and drop the bike.

Stuart, I am confused with the correct method to practice. Can you give me some advice please.

John S

Hi John

I normally put the left foot (only) down as I stop, as per IAM/Roadcraft teaching but not inflexibly. Interestingly enough I was watching the Olympic Torch last week and its dozen or more motorcycle police escorts who were stop/starting a lot as they made slow progress – and they seemed to use varying methods, including right foot down or both.

The key thing isn’t whether the handlebars are straight or which foot you put down but continues………

Dear Stuart – All metal tyre valves

Hi Stuart,

Can you tell me where Ii can get bolt on tyre valves for my GoldWing GL 1500SE as the rubber one’s keep leaking. I have to blow tyres up every two days, have checked all web sites and can not locate valves anywhere apart from the USA, hope you can help.

Cheers Andy

Hi Andy,

Found some on EBay which I think will do the job.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCLE-BRIDGEPORT-TYRE-VALVE-11-3mm-90-DEGREE-BRAND-NEW-/120857171312?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1c23a61570

I searched on “90 tyre valves” but “bridgeport tyre valve” would also work.

These valves are also available in UK from Demon Tweeks to fit two wheel hole sizes (8.3 and 11.3 mm) and in a choice of silver, black or gold finish. I suspect that the larger one is needed for a GL1500 (or a GL1800).

Ian Duxbury wrote an article about fitting this type of valve (because of rotting rubber at the base of the valve and a risk of catastrophic deflation) which might help:

GL1500 Owners – When did you last really check your tyre valves?

Hope this is useful.

Stuart

Dear Stuart – Good Service from AwingAway

Hi Stuart,

I contacted you recently regarding getting my head stock races changed for tapered ones and if you knew of anyone who could do it, you pointed me to Dave at Awingaway. I have just got back this afternoon from spending a lovely two days in Telford having the front end rebuilt on my 2002 GL1800.

We found a sawn off bolt in the right hand fork, maybe from the last leg rebuild (by a Honda dealer) as the left fork has leaked on four occasions.

This time I think the job has been done properly, as all the fork components were washed and cleaned before being put back together, and all the grey sludge washed out – I think this was the first time that had been done.

The headstock bearings were fitted and I also put one of the Aluminum spacers on the anti dive valve. The whole bike is completely different, it is a pleasure to ride again, after 3 years of being worried that it would fall apart or spit me off in a corner. I have come back today to Suffolk, scraping the foot rests on the floor, it is a real treat to find someone who knows about the bikes and has the patients and the knowledge to work on the .

Thanks for putting him in the frame for the job.

Regards

Richard

Dear Richard,

Thanks for the feedback.  Dave Partridge is certainly building a reputation – and he’s taking on quite big jobs too, so having another genuine GoldWing Specialist available is extremely welcome.  I was hoping he’d be doing some work on one of my classic GoldWings shortly but he’s got too much on!

Stuart

Dear Stuart ….. Leaning into bends and on roundabouts

Editorial Note:  I get enquiries for advice from time to time and always try to reply helpfully – and they often raise issues which could be of general interest so I have decided to start publishing them, together with my reply.

A writer’s contact details will never be published but normally I will include the name and an indication of locality.

In this case I was asked not to do so and have therefore complied.

Dear Stuart,

I live in Ireland and ride a Golding 1800. I am in my early fifties and went back biking about two years ago did my test in UK ( Direct access).  Just wondering if you could point me in the right direction.

I’m having a little difficulty with leaning the bike into bends and especially at roundabouts.  I read your article about the track days and wondering if you could recommend a good advanced course in the UK .   I keep practising slow riding and U turns but can’t seem to snap the bike into a turn , as seen on the you tube videos from the USA. I can do a U turn but I am sitting up straight.

I would love to be able to scrape the pegs – not for fun but just in case I ever had to lean hard on a bend. I understand you may not have the time to reply to strangers like me, but and help would be very much appreciated.

By the way I have tried two different advanced instructors here in Ireland but did not have a great experience with them. One guy told me to get rid of the Golding as it was not suitable for Irish roads. He also told me not to slip the clutch slow riding and it will burn out. Thanking you in advance.   Regards J. continues………